![]() With womanhood suspect, it makes sense to put girls on the runway. And “there’s something kind of average, a little too attainable and too cheap about curves,” Mears writes. If high fashion is created by the elite for the elite, everything about it must be unattainable. “You have more power, you have more influence, to guide and direct,” says a female scout in Girl Model, the disturbing documentary on model scouting that comes out in September.įashion sociologist Ashley Mears has written that over time, the fashion world’s notion of ideal womanhood has been reconceptualized as something less, well, womanly. And it can’t hurt that the younger they are, the less they ask for and the easier they are to control. Big fashion houses want “a girl no one has used before,” British modeling agent Carole White told the Guardian earlier this year. Supply and demand also feed on each other in more toxic ways. If only the girls being supplied weren’t so thin, they could make bigger clothes! In any case, while casting directors and magazine editors blame the designers for making such small sample sizes, designers blame the agents, Barry says. But this argument falls short, he points out, when you consider the hundreds of thousands of dollars fashion houses spend on runway shows. Barry says designers claim that making smaller sizes allows them to save money by cutting back on the fabric and labor involved in creating expensive couture items.
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